Shoe construction



March 9, 1937.- c. e. WERNMARK 2,073,543

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed llay 12, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 11v VENTOR 012AVVEF/VMAEIK B Y A TTORNE y March 1937- c. e. WERNMARK 2,073,543

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Kay 12, 1934 2 Shoots-Sheet 2 IN VENTOR A? 2/6/124 '6 l Vie/v/me/ A TTORNEY Patented Mar. 9, 1937 UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE 2,073,543 SHOE CONSTRUCTION Calif.

Application May 12, 1934, Serial No. 725,373

11 Claims.

This invention relates to shoe construction and particularly pertains tothe construction of sport shoes and sandals.

In the manufacture of shoes, and particularly sport shoes and sandals,it is desirable to construct the shoes of a few relatively simple partsand to assemble them in a manner to be workmanlike in appearance,comfortable to the wearer, and durable, and it is the principal objectof the present invention to provide a shoe con struction for shoes ofordinary type, such as oxfords and for sandals, which structure makes itpossible to form the shoe without making it over a last and to assemblethe shoe in a cheap and convenient manner without sacrificing theappearance or durability of the product.

The present invention contemplates the provision of a shoe sole ofpeculiar construction and upon which shoe uppers or sandal parts may bestitched by a new and novel type of stitching which does not requirethat the shoe upper be formed over a last and which insures that theupper will be held in proper position to be shaped by the foot of thewearer as the shoe is worn,

the heel portion of the upper being constructed to readily conform tothe heel without the use of a counter and the heel embodying novelcushion means.

The invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanyingdrawings in which:

Figure 1 is a view in side elevation showing one form of the presentinvention embodied in an oxford type of sport shoe.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary view in plan showing the toe portionof a shoe with parts broken away to disclose the manner in which theupper is stitched to the sole.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view in transverse section seen on the line 3-3 ofFig. 2 and as showing the channeled portion of the sole and the mannerin which the upper is secured thereto.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in plan showin the manner in which the edgeof the upper leather is formed.

Fig. 5 is a view in plan showing the sole blank used in connection withthe type ofshoe shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a view in plan showing a sandal embodying the presentconstruction and the novel features of applicants invention.

Fig. 7 is a view in transverse section through the toe portion of thesandal as seen on the line 1-1 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a view in vertical section throu h the heel portion of thesandal as seen on the line 8-8 of Fig. 6.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 5 of the drawings, l0 indicates asole blank which may be of any size and last desired. This sole blank is5 flat throughout and constitutes a full. sole. Formed on the upper faceof the blank is a marginal rib H, separated from the sole surface by theusual channel II. The outer edge of the sole blank as occurring betweenthe outer edge of the 0 rib II and the edge of the sole is relieved andlies below the plane of the upper surface of the sole and has an upperface l2 which preferably inclines outwardly and downwardly for a purposeto be hereinafter described. Formed through the rib at equal spacedintervals is a series of punched openings l3. These openings are made byan awl and are preferably produced by a multiple awl machine so that thepunched openings l3 will be accurately .and mechanically 20 formed andspaced. In order that a stitching needle may be conveniently threadedthrough the openings l3 these openings incline'downwardly and outwardlythrough the rib II and are disposed at an angle substantially agreeingwith 25 that of the upper face l2 of the outer edge of the sole andparallel to the plane thereof. The upper portions l4, whether they be ofa design to form a sandal or an oxford, are formed along their outermarginal edges with scallops l5 and perforations l6. The perforationsare disposed in equally spaced relation to each other and in equaldistance from the edge of the leather. The scallops or indentations areformed in the marginal edge of the leather in equally spaced relation toeach other and at points midway of the distance between the perforationsI6. The line of spacing of the perforations IS with relation to the edgeof the upper leather I4 is such as to permit a stitching thread I! topass through the perforations Hi from the perforations l3 in the ribwhen the outer marginal edge of the leather I4 is in register with theouter edge of the rib II. The longitudinal spacing of the per- 45forations IS with relation to each other is in exact agreement with thespacing of the passageways l3 through the rib ll so that the passagewaysi3 and the perforations will register and make it possible to produce auniform and sym- 5 metrical stitching along the edge of the upper. Thestitching is a crisscross stitching as particularly shown in Fig. 2 ofthe drawings. Here it will be seen. that two stitching threads are used,

Ha and I"). These threads pass in opposite di- 55 rection through thesame passageways I 3 in the rib II of the sole and through the sameperforations l6 of the upper. This in effect stitches the marginal edgeof the upper down flat upon the upper flat face of the rib H andmaintains the upper in a desired shape. The threads of the stitchingcross each other between each pair of perforations l6 and thepassageways l3. It will be evident that at the point of crossing thereare two thicknesses of thread and that as the shoe is used thisprojecting portion of the thread might be scuffed and rapidly cutthrough, In order to avoid this the scallops I 5 have been formed in themarginal edge of the pieces of upper leather l4 and accommodate the twothreads at their point of crossing. This permits the crisscrossstitching to be drawn down fiat across the leather to produce a smoothseam.

As previously stated the upper may be of any particular design, althoughtwo forms have been shown in the present invention, a conventional typeof oxford in Fig. 1, and a sandal in Fig. 6.

The heel portion of the various types of shoes is preferably of thegeneral construction indicated in Fig. 8. In this figure it will be seenthat a heel I8 is suitably secured to the bottom of the sole lfland thatan indentation I9 is formed in it. This indentation is preferablycircular as indicated by a dotted line in Fig. 6. A similar indentation2D is formed in the meeting face of the sole. The opposing indentationsthus provide a space to receive a rubber cushion 2|. This rubber cushionis preferably made of rubber having considerable resiliency and since itoccurs directly beneath the ball of the heel will cushion the footduring walking, irrespective of whether or not the heel I8 is made ofleather, rubber, or some suitable composition. The heel portion of theupper, as indicated at 22 in Figs. 1 and 8, is constructed without theuse of any counter to stiffen it and to give it shape. This isaccomplished by forming vertical slashes in the leather as indicated at23 and which slashes make it possible for the leather of the heelportion to spread out and properly fit around the contour of the heel.In the sandal shown in Fig. 6, the foot embracing portions are crossmember 24, an instep portion 25, and a heel portion 22. The edges ofthese members which are to be stitched to the sole are perforated andscalloped, as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings, to be secured to ribs Hformed along the sole at appropriate locations. The forward end or toeof the sole is upturned as indicated at 21 in Fig. '7 of the drawings.This provides a protection for the ends of the toes of the foot withoutrequiring any cap for the toe portion of the shoe. In this constructionthe instep portion of the upper extends forwardly and overlaps the upperend of the upturned portion 21 of the sole and is stitched as indicatedat 28.

In the manufacture of shoes of the type with which the present inventionis concerned the upper leather is properly cut from patterns and isperforated and scalloped along its edges as indicated at l5 and IS inFig. 4 of the drawings. The upper may then be stitched to the sole bycausing one thread lla to be threaded through the passageways l3 and theperforations l 6. The thread I 1b is threaded through these passagewaysand perforations in an opposite direction to produce the crisscrossstitching particularly shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings. Thisstitching will draw the marginal portion of the upper leather downtightly upon the horizontal face of the ribs II and will hold the samein this p sition. It will also be evident that the stitching threadswill not pass through the bottom of the sole of the shoe and will nottherefore be subjected to the wear incident to treading on the pavementor the like. Attention is also directed to the fact that the seambetween the shoe upper and the sole does not occur beneath the foot ofthe wearer, thus making it unnecessary to provide insoles for the shoes.In the drawings the rib to which the upper is stitched is shown as beingin uniformly spaced relationship to the marginal edge of the sole. Itwill be understood, of course, that the stitching rib may be in anydesired spaced relationship to the marginal edge of the sole as styleand the judgment of the designer of shoes embodying the presentinvention might dictate.

It will thus be seen that the shoe structure here disclosed is decidedlysimple, provides a shoe which is inexpensive as to labor cost andmaterial, and in addition a shoe is made which affords considerablecomfort to the wearer.

While I have shown the preferred form of my invention, as now known tome, it will be understood that various changes may be made in thecombination, construction, and arrangement of parts by those skilled inthe art without departing from the spirit of the invention as claimed.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent is:-

1. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed with a rib on the upperface thereof and spaced a uniform distance from the marginal edgethereof and therealong, a shoe upper having a marginal portion lyingfiat upon the portion of the upper face of the rib, and stitchingpassing laterally through the rib and then up through and over themarginal edge of the upper to hold the same.

-2. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a channel formed in the upperface of the marginal edge of said sole, a shoe upper, a portion of theleather of the upper adjacent the margin thereof lying flat upon theupper face of the sole outwardly of said channel, and stitching passinginto the channel without passingthrough the bottom of the sole andpassing through openings in the leather of the upper and being led overand around the marginal edge of the upper to fasten the same down uponthe upper face of the sole.

3. A shoe construction comprising a shoe sole having a marginal ribformed on the upper face of said sole, a shoe upper therefor, said upperbeing formed of flexible leather the outer edge of which is providedwith a marginal portion lying flat upon the upper face of the marginalrib of the sole, said marginal portion being defined by a row ofperforations spaced from the edge of the upper and stitching passinglaterally through the marginal rib and upwardly through the perforationsin the upper, and then across the marginal portion of the upper anddownwardly through the edge of the upper, through the marginal rib ofthe sole, and through the next succeeding perforation in the upper, saidstitching being formed by one continuous thread passing in a singledirection around the marginal rib of the sole.

4. A shoe construction comprising a shoe sole having a marginal ribformed on the upper face of said sole, 3, shoe upper therefor, saidupper being formed of flexible leather the outer edge of which isprovided with a marginal portion lying flat upon the upper face of themarginal rib of a row of perforations spaced from the edge ofthe upperand stitching passing laterally through the marginal rib and upwardlythrough the perforations in the upper, and then across the marginalportion of the upper and downwardly through the edge of the upper,through the marginal rib of the sole, and through; the next succeedingperforation in the upper, said stitching being formed by one continuousthread passing in a single direction around the marginal rib of thesole, and a second stitching passing in the opposite direction throughthe marginal rib of the sole and the perforations in the upper, the 1thread of said second stitching crossing the thread of the firststitching as it is led over the marginal portion of the upper wherebya"crisscross stitching will be formed/ 5. A shoe construction comprisinga shoe sole having a marginal rib formed on the upper face of said sole,a shoe upper therefor, said upper being formed of flexible leather theouter edge of which is provided with a marginal portion lying flat uponthe upper face of the marginal rib of the sole, said marginal portionbeing defined by a row of perforations spaced from the edge of the upperand stitching passing laterally through the marginal rib and upwardlythrough the perforations in the upper, and then across the marginalportion of the upper and downwardly through the edge of the upper,through the marginal rib of the sole, and through the next succeedingperforation in the upper, said stitching being formed by one continuousthread passing in a single direction aroundtlna marginal rib of thesole, and a second stitching passing in opposite direction through themarginal rib of the sole and the perforations in the upper, the threadofsaid second stitching crossing the thread of portion of the upperwhereby a crisscross stitching will be formed, and scallops formed inthe edge of the'marginal portion of the upper at points equidistantbetween the perforations and in which the two threads of the stitchinglie at their points of intersection.

6. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a rib formed along the upperface thereof, thread openings formed laterally through said rib atspaced intervals therealong, a shoe upper, the outer edge portion ofwhich is provided with a margin lying fiat across the upper face of saidrib, the width of said edge portion being defined by a row of perforations agreeing with and registering with said thread openings, and astitching thread successively passed through a thread opening in the riband a perforation in the upper and then drawn across the marginalportion of the upper and passed through the next succeeding threadopening of the rib whereby the upper is stitched to'the upper face ofthe rib.

'1. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a rib formed along the upperface thereof, thread openthe first stitching as it is led over themarginal ings formedlaterally through said rib at equal spaced intervalstherealong, a shoeupper, the outer edge portion of which is providedwith a margin lying flat across the upper face of said rib, theperimeter of said margin agreeing in contour with the outer edge of therib, the width of said margin being defined by a row of perforationsagreeing with and registering with said thread openings, and a stitchingthread successively passed through a thread opening in the rib and aperforation in the upper and then drawn across the marginal portion ofthe upper and passed through the next succeeding thread opening of therib whereby the upper is stitched to the upper face of the rib, and asecond thread led oppositely through the thread opening of the rib andthe perforations in the upper whereby the two threads cross each otherupon the margin of the upper to hold said portion of the upper in apermanent and tightly disposed position against the upper face' of therib.

8. In a shoe construction, a sole, a marginal rib lying fiat thereon,and an upper and stitching I therefor comprising two threadssuccessively led upper in which the crossing threads hold saidarea ofupper fiat .upon the face of the sole, said upper being cut away atsuitable intervals at which points the two threads cross whereby, thecrossing portions of the thread occur in the cutaway portion of theupper.

10. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed with a rib on its upperface, said rib substantially conforming to the contour of the foot ofthe wearer, a shoe upper havinga marginal portion lying against anupwardly presented face of said rib, and stitching successively passinglaterally through the rib, through the shoe upper and across themarginal portion thereof lying against the rib.

11. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed witha ribon its upperface, said rib substantially conforming to the contour of the foot ofthe wearer, a shoe upper having a marginal portion lying against anupwardly presented face of said rib, and'stitching successively passinglaterally through the rib, through the shoe upper and across themarginal portion thereof lying against the rib, said rib and upper beingprepared with openings through which the stitching passes and whichopenings bear a definite relation to each other to control thearrangement of the stitching.

cam. G.

